Arrival in Athens | Where To Stay and What To Do
When I first arrived in Athens, my initial thoughts were as follows:
Holy shit
What have I done?
Why is everyone yelling?
After finding the bathrooms, which was a mission in itself, I sat in the departure lounge frozen with fear. Everything and I mean everything, was in Greek. The bus timetable didn't have numbers, just various characters from the Greek alphabet that reminded me of my flatmate's one-week puzzle stint. I asked an older European woman if she could help me, and she replied in a language that sounded like Spanish - but I was so sleep-deprived it could have been Latin or Russian or maybe even Mandarin).
So there I sat. Over 14,000 kilometres away from home after nearly 30 hours of no sleep. I'd never felt more alone in my entire life, not to mention incredibly stupid - everyone had warned me about the dangers of women travelling alone. Should I curl up in the fetal position and cry? What had I done?
It was then that my mother's voice came to me - as it often does.
Just breath sweetpea
Breath in, breath out
Then I heard the niggling whisper of a particularly negative friend of mine.
I'd be so scared
What do you mean you have barely any money?
Europe is so dangerous at the moment
I wouldn't go alone
Their heads circled in front of me, talking over one another.
You are an independent vaguely confident young woman. You've wanted this your entire life. Pull yourself together.
This time, the voice was my own. I stood up, heaved my pack onto my shoulders, bid farewell to my foreign friend (who frowned at me and turned away again) and with reckless unstoppable abandon, I stomped out the doors into the great beyond.
You've made it this far, what's the worst that can happen?
The Greek transport system was, of course, a total shitshow. People were yelling and gesturing madly and children ran amok - everyone was smoking. I pursued a bus driver, chasing him down and demanding further instructions.
95 95
He waved his arms at me in a wild, incomprehensible fashion.
BUY TICKET BUY TICKET
Right there I learnt my first lesson - if a Greek person raises their voice, they're not angry. They're just Greek. So I purchased a bus ticket from the smoking man behind the dirty glass at the ticket office and waited about two minutes before a bus came hurtling to a stop in front of me. A mad dash for the seats and we were off. I was on my way.
Getting off at Syntagma Square was another shock. I clung to my pack, sweaty, exhausted and dehydrated - it took me an hour and a half to find my hostel, which turned out to be about ten minutes away from the bus stop. Fellow tourists and travellers raced past, cigarette smoke rolled out of cars onto the footpath and sweat dripped off me in thick rivers. I spotted the native Athenians almost immediately.
In Athens, you will spot a Greek on every corner. Squatting and smoking and wildly chatting to one another as they sip cheap beer in the shade. Greeks eat like they walk, but they drive like they talk with lots of yelling and hollering and mad hand gestures. On my first full day in Athens, I learnt never to assume a green walking man means you can cross safely - and if someone comes speeding towards you on a moped, talking on a cellphone, steering with their knees, with no helmet and drinking a frappe, there is no way they're slowing down. Get off the road as quickly as you can.
In my three days in Athens, I discovered an ancient, beautiful city. Jet lag saw me out of bed at 6 am my first morning. Stepping out of the hostel into the early morning sunshine, I made a quick decision to follow my dormmate's advice and turn right. Despite the time the locals were already out in force, speeding past in tiny European cars and mopeds, and blowing thick cigarette smoke from little patios yelling passionately at their neighbours across the street. Five minutes from my hostel I spotted a huge archway which turned out to be Hadrian's Gate. For a jet-lagged, foggy-eyed traveller from a tiny country at the bottom of the world, to stumble upon a monument so iconic and so ancient… well, it was like someone had switched a light on. I had made it, I was there. That feeling of accomplishment propelled me even further. As I walked around the gate, gazing in awe at the sheer size of it, I spied the Acropolis in the distance. At the end of a cobblestone street, lined with yellow and white houses and little cafes, was one of the most famous ancient sites in the world. I'll admit, that overwhelming feeling brought tears to my eyes.
5 Travel Tips for Athens
Watch out for marble - On my second night in Athens, I found myself joking with my bunkmate about the ancient Greeks and their obviously grippy sandals. There is marble everywhere and it’s very slippery, smoothed down by the thousands of people who have wandered the streets. Don’t make the same mistake I did and think you can walk along the curbs to avoid the hordes of tourists. If you’re not careful you will slip (like me) into the path of oncoming traffic (don’t worry Mum I survived). As I mentioned previously, they will not stop for anyone.
Get lost - Get used to getting lost Athens is just one of those cities; let yourself. I found myself wandering in circles for hours, eventually coming to a stop and saying out loud to myself “Where am I?” before falling into fits of laughter - what else is there to do? If you do find yourself getting anxious, ask a local. You can also get a map from the Info Desk in Syntagma Square although it won’t do much good (at least you’ll have some reassurance). You can also get your bearings by looking for the Acropolis. It’s smack bang in the middle of the city meaning you can see it from anywhere, and added bonus it’s easily spotted on that damn map. Don’t forget that half the fun of travelling is that feeling of discovering a new place - enjoy it and stay calm.
Get off the beaten track - Plaka and the Acropolis are nice, but go elsewhere as well. Plaka is one of the oldest parts of Athens. It’s beautiful and definitely worth a visit, but it’s also very touristy and as a result, very expensive. Don’t get me wrong I spent a great deal of time there, but if you’re looking for cheap and authentic places to eat go elsewhere. My first breakfast in Athens was a frappe and souvlaki - it cost me €4. The city can be bloody cheap if you know where to look. My simple advice is this; know how to spot tourists and the expensive places that cater to them. Is the cafe filled with sunburnt Brits in fanny packs? Can you see (or rather hear) at least one buxom-bleached blonde American lass in short shorts and a USA crop top? Is she gushing about the time she “found herself” in Mykonos? Can you see khaki? Call me judgemental but tourists can be very easy to spot - and before you ask, I’m not a tourist. I’m a traveller (there’s a big difference). Also make sure you go to all the historical sites, not just the Acropolis. It’s an extra 10€ to see five other sites that are just as beautiful.
Blend in - I was warned repeatedly before I left about pickpockets. Don’t be that tourist aimlessly wandering down the street in barely any clothing with an open handbag and passport on display. Don’t be that sunburnt bald guy in a “This is Sparta” t-shirt. I felt very safe in Athens, but it’s still a large city and there is a lot of street crime. Teaching yourself to blend in so you can slip past unnoticed will be the best thing you’ll learn. I’m lucky - as a half-Austrian olive-skinned European mutt I tanned up nicely on my first day. I started dressing like the locals and bada boom bada boom, people started talking to me in Greek. My best advice would be to walk with a purpose, even if you’re lost.
Enjoy the little things - It’s easy to get swept up when you’re travelling - learn to slow right down. On my second day, I was sitting on a park bench in Plaka with absolutely no clue where I was. As I stared intently at my pocket map wondering what direction I should head, a Greek family approached me. I was so busy staring at that map I didn’t notice at first, but the youngest boy sat down next to me. Soon a family of six plus me were squished onto a park bench built for maybe two or three people, eating their lunch and (you guessed it) conversing madly with lots of yelling. I pointed at my map and asked where we were - they spoke no English. So it was there, over 14,000 kilometres away from home, a lone sweaty Kiwi and a large Greek family, managed to work out where we were on a tiny shitty map.
Things to do in Athens
The Agora
Translating to market in Greek, the agora was a public space in Ancient Greece where people would gather - it was the centre of social, religious and political life in the city. These days, it’s a wonderful spot for a wander close to Athen’s Acropolis. Significant archaeological evidence has been found to suggest women working as innkeepers and merchants would sell their products at the agora as early as the 4th and 5th centuries. Products included fruit, clothing, pottery and luxury goods such as perfume, dye and ribbons.
Mount Lycabettus
In the suburb of Kolonaki, you’ll find Mount Lycabettus. Legend has it that the hill appeared when Athena, the patron saint of Athens, dropped a rock she was carrying when a crow gave her some bad news.
Mount Lycabettus is the highest point in Athens at a whopping 277 meters. It provides visitors with panoramic views of the city which are well worth the gruelling uphill walk (you can take the funicular if you’re not feeling like a hike). There’s also the Agios Georgios at the top - a stunning whitewashed church built sometime in the 15th and 16th centuries. Lunch and coffee can be purchased at the summit.
The Byzantine Museum
The Byzantine Museum is one of the national museums of Greece, focusing particularly on religious artefacts from the Early Christian, Byzantine, Medieval and post-Byzantine eras with more than 25,000 antiquities in its collection. The museum’s collection dates back as early as the 3rd century and gives visitors a fascinating glimpse into the country’s history.
Where to stay in Athens
I stayed at Hotel Diskouros, a rundown yet charming hostel just five minutes from Plaka and ten minutes from Syntagma Square. It’s cheap, the beds are comfortable and the courtyard is a lovely spot to get some early morning sun.
What to take to Athens
Sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat with a brim. If you’re an unprepared idiot like me and find yourself with mild heatstroke, or hot with achy eyes, I found the best way to cool down is Gelato in the shade. When you’re finished, lick the spoon clean and place it over your closed eyelids. You’ll look like a dick but at least your eyes will enjoy the cooling sensation (hint: this is not what I would describe as “blending in”).
Also make sure you try a frappe. All the locals drink them and for one or two euros, where could you possibly go wrong?