Three Days in Turin | Italy Travel Guide
If you’re looking for a quick city break in Italy with fewer tourists than Venice or Rome, then Turin, the capital of Italy’s mountainous Piedmont region, should be at the top of your list. Perfect for a weekend getaway, Turin is a bustling and atmospheric city bursting at the seams with elegant art-nouveau cafes and tree-lined boulevards reminiscent of a bygone era. Surrounded by the Alps and blessed with a combination of both contemporary and historic art, classic European architecture, a fascinating Egyptian museum and an equally enticing local dining scene, Turin is easily the most understated and underrated destination in Italy.
Being so close to France and Switzerland, it is hardly surprising that Turin has had a long, tumultuous (and at times bloody) history, as well as some pretty interesting relationships with its neighbours. In my opinion, it’s a fantastic spot for a break, with plenty of fun to be had in the city’s eclectic mix of historic museums and art galleries, independent bookshops and delectable eateries. It’s also close to Milan, Italy’s business and fashion hub, as well as the stunning coastal city of Genoa.
Where is Turin?
The metropolitan city of Turin, known by Italians as Torino, is a bustling metropolis in the north of Italy. It is the capital city of Piedmont, which is a region of Italy bordering France and Switzerland. The city sits at the foot of the Alps and is known for its sophisticated cuisine, delicious wines, baroque architecture and Mole Antonelliana, an iconic monument named after the Italian architect who designed it.
What to do in Turin
While Turin isn’t the most touristy spot in Italy, there’s still no shortage of things to do. From day trips to the Italian coast, to meandering through the city’s many museums and art galleries, there’s plenty of fun to be had in Torino.
Day One
We woke up early the Saturday morning after we arrived to the first rays of sunshine I’d seen in over six months. Euphoria doesn’t even begin to cut it - I threw on my favourite sundress and off we went.
We ended up spending most of the day at the Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano. Open from Tuesday through to Sunday, it’s €10 per adult and is well worth the visit for the building alone. The museum is currently housed in the Palazzo Carignano which was built in 1679. Designed in a Baroque style by architect Guarino Guarini and commissioned by Prince Emmanuel Philibert, the son of the Prince of Carignano, the building is filled with lavish frescoes, stucco decorations and other features meant to represent the successes and triumphs of the Carignano family.
The Palazzo has a long and eventful history. It was the birthplace of Maria Teresa Luisa, the Princess of Lamballe who was executed for her friendship with Marie Antoinette in 1792, as well as Charles Emmanuel in 1770, the Prince of Carignano, and Victor Emmanuel II in 1820, who became the first King of Italy. Today, the rooms of the museum feature films created with intriguing artworks and photographs from important European collections. You’ll also find interesting artefacts as well as other bits and pieces from Piedmont’s long history.
Day Two
On the second day of our trip, we were feeling like a swim. So we wandered down to Porta Nuova, Turin’s main train station, and booked return tickets to Genoa - a coastal city just under two hours South of Turin. The train tickets to Genoa cost €14 per person one way. My partner also purchased breakfast at Cafe Napoli in the train station - apparently, it was “the best sandwich” he ate in Italy (that’s a direct quote).
Like Turin, Genoa is a splendid European city - it was also one of the world’s largest trading powers during medieval times, the wealth of which can still be seen today in the palazzi, lavish churches and impressive city gates. We got on a bus to Boccadasse, a marina village famous for its impressive Mediterranean beach, with plans to spend a few hours basking in the sun before returning to Genoa later in the day for a pizza.
Is Boccadasse worth visiting?
In my opinion, Boccadasse is definitely worth the trip. According to local legend, the beach was discovered in 1000 AD by Spanish fishermen seeking shelter from a rough and stormy day at sea. Surrounded by a traditional mariner village, today it’s a distinctly Italian spot perfect for a swim and a nap in the Mediterranean sunshine.
When we visited, we found we were the only people in our swimwear which of course led us to believe the beach might be too dangerous for swimming. After a quick Google search and a reassuring message from an Italian friend, we found out that in April it is simply too cold for Italians to swim. So while the locals sat on the beach in puffer jackets and jeans, in we went for a quick dip followed by a snack from Il Borgo Croccante. Unfortunately, this wee hole in the wall didn’t have any gluten-free options for me. However, it gets an honourable mention for being the second-best sandwich Josh had in Italy - beaten narrowly by the one he ate for breakfast.
How to get to Boccadasse from Genoa
Boccadasse is only 10 minutes on the bus from central Genoa. To get there, you can catch the 42 or 31 bus from the city centre. The directions you follow to get to the beach will depend on the bus you take. For the 42, walk to the main street then turn left and head up the road. You should see signs for Boccadasse on the right - if you arrive at the Lidl, you’ve gone too far.
Is Genoa worth visiting?
Like Boccadasse, Genoa is definitely worth the visit. In fact, apart from an overpriced lunch at Pizzeria Antica Napoli Da Pasquale (I’m still livid over the enormous gluten-free surcharge applied to our bill without our knowledge), our trip to the Italian coast was one of the highlights of our holiday. Boasting traditional European architecture and a historic port with down-to-earth restaurants and enticing urban cafes, Genoa is a treasure trove combining modern Italian life with the traditional heritage the country is known for. It’s also the birthplace of Christopher Columbus, focaccia bread and believe it or not, blue jeans, which were invented by Genoese weavers in the early 16th century to be worn by the city’s seafarers and sailors. At least according to some accounts - others say it was the French.
If you are going to visit Genoa, make sure you visit the Santissima Annunziata del Vastato. We wandered in after my partner decided the open doors were too inviting to pass up and ended up sitting in awe for well over half an hour. Cafe HB 1969 is also just up the road offering mouth-watering gelato al caffè.
Day Three
On our first day in Turin, we found out the hard way that we should have booked tickets for Museo Egizio in advance. Turin’s famous Egyptian museum has the largest collection of artefacts outside of Egypt and is the world's oldest museum dedicated to the preservation of ancient Egyptian culture. It’s also the most visited tourist destination in Turin, so booking in advance is encouraged. After finding available tickets online, we woke up at the crack of dawn on Monday morning and headed to the museum for our 9 am slot.
When I first read about Museo Egizio, my initial thoughts were along the lines of Why would anybody go to an Egyptian museum in Italy? Fortunately, Josh is probably the biggest history nerd I’ve ever met and insisted we go - and I’m so glad we did. It’s a massive museum, filled with tens of thousands of different artefacts from pots, pans and sandals to the mummified remains of some of Egypt’s most powerful rulers and aristocracy. It also has a fabulous wee cafe with a great view of the piazza below.
Make sure you look out for the three sisters Tapeni, Tamit and Renpetneferet. There are quite a few mummies in the museum, including a few very young children, but for whatever reason, it was seeing Tamit that reduced me to tears. Unlike her sisters, Tamit wasn’t mummified properly and as a result, her head is exposed. Despite being more than 3000 years old, you can see her brunette hair and the top half of her face, including the outline of her eyelids.
I’m not sure why I shed a tear for Tamit - maybe it was the fact that all those years ago, she was kicking about in ancient Egypt, brushing her hair, applying makeup and arguing with her mother in the same way I do now. Whatever the reason, I felt a connection with Tamit. For me, seeing her lying there with her sisters ended up being one of those surreal and humbling moments you have travelling when you realise just how small you are in the grand schemes of things.
After the museum, we headed outside where we came across Cafe Pepino. Sitting in the piazza in the midday sun sipping coffee in between scoops of gelato, I could see why so many tourists flock to Italy every year. From the sun-soaked piazzas and historic streets to the delectable homemade food and strong caffè espressos, I think I may have left a piece of my heart in the square that day.
Where to stay in Turin
As we planned to celebrate our four-year anniversary in Turin, my partner and I (who are usually dedicated hostel dorm dwellers) decided to splurge on an Airbnb. We stayed at the Peculiar Room in Porta Palazzo - a gorgeous Airbnb about 20 minutes walk from Turin’s busy city centre.
We had our own loft bedroom with a private balcony where we sat each evening drinking wine and eating fresh cheese from one of the many local corner stores in the neighbourhood. We also shared a very tidy bathroom and kitchen, which was decorated with mosaic tiles during one of Italy’s many rolling lockdowns. As a result, the artwork and decor in the kitchen and bathroom have that wonderfully recognisable air of what I like to call pandemic-induced desperation and/or boredom - something we all know way too well.
For only £28 a night, this Airbnb is well worth the money. We were told by an American on the train that the neighbourhood was unsafe but we never had any issues. The locals were quite friendly and overall, we found the area to be a vibrant and diverse community with plenty of fascinating shops, cafes, restaurants and bars. There’s also the Porta Palazzo Market, a great indoor-outdoor market selling fresh produce, clothing and other bits and pieces which you should definitely check out.
What to eat in Turin
Of all the things Italy is known for, its cuisine is probably the most famous. In Turin, you’ll find your usual suspects like beautifully simple yet scrumptious pizza, delectable homemade pasta and fresh gelato. You’ve also got your regional delights including Barolo wines, Nutella (it was invented in Turin) and of course, bicerin - a chocolate, coffee and cream concoction you can order at any cafe in the city.
Gluten-Free Turin: Where I ate
I’ve been gluten-free since November 2022 without too much hassle, but I have to admit I was apprehensive when we first booked our trip to Italy. After all, what’s a gluten-free girly to eat in the land of pizza, pasta and all things bread?
I was pleasantly surprised in Turin just how many places were offering tasty, gluten-free fare, although apparently in Italian cities this is quite normal. I soon found out that there is plenty of awareness of coeliac disease and gluten intolerance in Italy - children are tested when they’re young, as soon as they start to show any symptoms. Although I’m not allergic to gluten (just intolerant), I found the easiest way to go about asking for a gluten-free menu would be to say celiaca to the wait staff. Most cafes and restaurants were very accommodating.
For dinner, we found it easier to buy a few things from one of the many corner shops you can find all over the city. After a day of walking around the city, our Airbnb’s balcony was too enticing to forgo, so we were more than happy to sit in the cool shade and feast on fresh tomatoes, cheese and salami. For breakfast and lunch, on the other hand, we had no trouble finding places to eat.
Nonna Cleme
At Nonna Cleme's house, it’s always Sunday. With fresh ingredients, a delightfully colourful interior and plenty of gluten-free and vegan options, the small restaurant in Turin successfully emulates the warmth and welcome only felt in the home of a true Italian nonna. It’s a delightful wee spot for a bite with pizza and piping hot coffee available, as well as Italian sweets, aperitifs and even cocktails.
GROM
Of all the food I miss since finding out I’m intolerant to gluten, ice cream in a waffle cone on a hot summer’s day is right up there with sourdough bread and fresh, homemade pasta. Fortunately, I live in Scotland where I seldom feel warm enough to enjoy ice cream. However, as I wandered the streets of Turin, all I could think about was pile upon pile of fresh gelato stuffed into one of those crispy glutenous parcels that would have inevitably made me swell up like a hot air balloon. That’s when my partner took to Google Maps and stumbled upon Italy’s answer to gluten-free gelato - GROM.
We found out later that GROM is not unique to Turin. It’s a chain of gluten-free gelaterias that can be found right across Italy’s major cities. Of course, that doesn’t mean it isn’t worth a visit. Believe me when I say the pistachio flavour had me audibly moaning in the piazza.
How to get to Turin
We flew direct from Edinburgh to Torino Airport, arriving Friday night. As I don’t finish work until late, the evening flight with Ryanair at 18:55 was actually part of the appeal. You can also fly direct from London via British Airways, easyJet, TUI, Jet2 and Avion Express.
As for arrival, the main airport is about an hour out of the city. Tickets for the airport bus cost €14 return and can be booked online through the Arriva website or the app - you can also pay with card or cash on the bus, or get an Uber for about €30 one way.
We opted for the bus which took us to central Turin, before walking 20 minutes to our Airbnb. By the time we arrived, it was almost midnight. Apart from one very short Italian man stepping in front of me to coo Ciao Bella, we didn’t have any issues wandering around the city late at night.
Is Turin worth visiting?
As I sat in Turin’s historic squares eating pistachio gelato and wandering through the ancient streets, I thought to myself more than once, why has it taken me so long to get here?
My visit to Turin this past April was the first time I’d travelled to Italy. My partner on the other hand has talked of nothing else but Italy since we met - more specifically, his trip to Rome with his dad and sister when he was 15. From the simplicity of the classic Margherita and delectable gelato to the cheap beer, he’s been saying he can’t wait to go back to Italy since the very first time we met in a Melbourne hostel in 2019.
To be honest, I didn’t even know much about Turin when I booked our trip. I knew it was a city in Northern Italy and the weather would probably be better than Glasgow and that was enough for me. After a long Scottish winter, Josh was just as desperate for some sunshine and vitamin D as I was, so off we went. We had a wonderful, very chill three days basking in the Italian sun, eating pomodoro and buffalo de mozzarella on our balcony and wandering about the city’s many museums. So if you’re considering whether or not Turin is worth it for a city break, my answer is a resounding yes.