A Pocket Guide to Innsbruck | Innsbruck Travel Guide
I arrived in Innsbruck for the first time just as the leaves were turning auburn and starting to fall from the trees. From bright canary yellow to a damp mandarin, to a light rouge to a deep maroon, leaves were cascading down from the trees to fall in a brilliant auburn carpet on the grass and concrete. When the wind picks up they blew and spiralled in great waves across the city, silent but for the light whistle of the breeze. I felt it rustle through my hair and the light drizzle on my face, watching the leaves fall from the trees in great waves to land at my feet. A new season, times are a-changing.
Catching the train from Slovenia was simple enough. I wandered down to the station and purchased a ticket. Easy. First I caught the train to Salzburg, then to Innsbruck in Southern Austria.
I've spent my entire life hearing about Austria. For those of you that don't know, I am basically the ultimate tourist souvenir - the lovechild of an irresponsible intercontinental truck driver and a nomadic hippie. The relationship didn't work out but for whatever reason my Mother decided to keep me. So I grew up in New Zealand never knowing my Austrian family - my Father included. However my Mum has always talked about Austria and how beautiful it is, especially in Autumn when all the changing trees turn the mountainous landscape various shades of auburn. To finally see what she had been harping on about all those years really was incredible. You can read more about that here.
As well as the fascinating history, Innsbruck itself is very beautiful. In the old town there are twisting cobblestone streets, ancient beautiful buildings and various cafes offering traditional Austrian sweets and cakes. I had a lot of fun wandering around, hopping from museum to cafe to museum.
One thing I love about Europe is the bells - in every town and city every half an hour or so you can hear them ringing. Innsbruck wasn't any different in that regard. The city is picturesque.
It's important to bear in mind that Innsbruck is surrounded by mountains. They're beautiful, and I could see how the city brings in so many tourists in the winter for skiing and snowboarding. However, although they appeared beautiful at first I soon found their presence suffocating. Innsbruck is completely surrounded - like completely - and although I enjoyed my stay within a few days I was ready to move on. The ever-present surrounding ominous presence made me nervous. I also found Austrians themselves to be very cold people. In New Zealand, we smile and talk to each other - in Greece and Serbia my tendency to start conversations with strangers wasn't a problem. People were more than willing to talk. However, in Austria, the locals were snobby and unfriendly. The nicest people I met were in a pub I accidentally stumbled into looking for food.
Quick Guide to Innsbruck
What to see in Innsbruck
The old town in Innsbruck is absolutely stunning. Also if you're in the mood and the weather is good, hiking up one of the surrounding mountains can be worth your while. If you don't feel like walking, you can take a gondola - but be warned, a trip all the way to the top will cost you €30 (each way). For something a little more low-key, there’s Downtown Sound Record Store. I stumbled upon this place and found a cute little record shop complete with stacks of records and band tees. The retail assistant was Welsh with a wife from New Zealand - he recognised my accent straight away and we got chatting. Turns out he'd been an extra on Shortland Street. There’s also Nowhere Vintage - the Austrians may be cold but damn, they know how to dress.
What to try in Innsbruck
If you're skint or simply want to get off the beaten track, I highly recommend you leave the old town to eat. I ordered Käsenodelsuppe, a cheese dumpling soup, by accident when I wandered into a pub (they're everywhere in Innsbruck) and asked for food. It's delicious and can be quite cheap. A slice of cake at Cafe Munding is also an absolute must - it's one of the oldest cafes in Innsbruck and its cakes and sweets are world-famous.