My First Time in Paris | A Pocket Travel Guide For First-Time Visitors
The first time I arrived in Paris, this is what I wrote in my journal:
Everyone is drinking, smoking and/or riding a bicycle - some all at once.
There are tiny Parisian dogs everywhere. They trot elegantly down the shit-smeared pavement.
The wide open streets are lined with cream-coloured buildings that have greened with age.
There are expansive green spaces which contrast with narrow winding cobblestone alleyways.
A crisp buttery scent drifts from corner boulangeries, intermingles with the sewer stench that lingers down alleys.
The city is wild and beautiful and filthy and wonderful.
Like most travellers, I've been dreaming of Paris for most of my life. The city is in every painting and photograph, every book and every film. Its cultural significance is unparalleled. When you think of Paris, you probably think of the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe or maybe of warm croissants by the Seine. Maybe you think of beautiful, elegantly dressed French people chatting away in their native language in small cafes with checkered tabletops. After two days in Paris I can confirm the stereotypes aren’t wrong. Walking through the streets of Paris, I thought to myself more than once that the city is almost a cliche. Almost. Walking down the street is like walking down the set of an old black-and-white film. Everything, from the buildings to the pavement, from the cool breeze to the scent of tobacco in the air, is poetry. Paris is the city of love in more ways than one.
On my first day I walked off the train and headed straight for the Louvre. Despite getting there relatively early the tourists were already out in force, and I'll admit I lost my temper more than once. The crowd that swarmed around the Mona Lisa was more like an angry mosh pit at a heavy metal concert than a crowd of travellers brought together by their love of art. Tourists pushed and shoved, dug elbows into one another; camera flashes and selfie sticks obscured Da Vinci's masterpiece. Mona Lisa is beautiful, and I could have stood and stared at her subtle, mysterious smile all day - but the hordes made longer than ten minutes a torment. The crowds were much the same at the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe, but in a cramped art gallery, I found the atmosphere almost unbearable. Fortunately, the rest of the museum was empty.
I'll admit, my trip to Paris was basically an art tour. I also drank a lot of wine alone. I walked from gallery to cafe to gallery to cafe. I went to the Musée de l'Orangerie and cried when I saw Monet's Lillies - this museum has also banned flash photography and selfie sticks much to my glee. On my second day, I stumbled upon the Musée Jacquemart-André quite by accident and happily spent the next few hours gazing at Impressionist artworks with little to no people around. The Petit Palace was another delight I sadly missed out on. To be honest, I got there mid-afternoon and the queues were so intense I bolted.
Overall, Paris has a strange and wonderful quality to it. The city itself buzzes with energy and electricity. The wine and cigarettes are cheap, the food is fresh and delicious and the alleyways are long and winding. It’s a city of secrets. The boulevards are world-famous - widened in the late 18th century by Haussmann under Napoleon III not only to ease congestion but to allow armies to parade straight through to the city centre. Just look at a map of the city and you can see the innovative urban planning that went into the Paris we know today.
On my last night in Paris, I befriended another girl in the hostel. She spoke no English and I speak no French, yet somehow we managed to agree that eating dinner together would be a fabulous idea. We ended up in the middle of nowhere somewhere around the outskirts of the city - I had to Uber back to my hostel close to midnight. I still know next to nothing about her.
The morning after, I stopped at Cafe Le Cristal Bar for a quick breakfast. After I inhaled two coffees and some cheese and bread, which I managed to order in French, I went to pay. When I thanked the man behind the counter, he laughed, slapped me across the face and yelled see you soon in perfect English. I since found out that slapping tourists across the face is not normal - but hey, it makes for a good story right?
Honestly, my strongest recommendation in Paris would be to avoid tourists and touristy areas wherever you can - it's that simple. Go to popular attractions but do not linger. Walk, don’t taxi. Seek out cafes down alleyways where nobody speaks English and the coffee is strong and bitter. Wander, and you'll discover the true city. She is a delight to behold.
Quick Guide to Paris
What to do in Paris
Obviously, the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, and the Louvre are must-sees. However, I would also strongly recommend The Musée de l'Orangerie. Monet's Lillies are breathtaking. Also, make sure you eat a ham and cheese baguette by the Seine - if you pay more than €4 for a sandwich, you're being ripped off.
Where (not) to stay in Paris
I stayed at the The Generator. I chose to stay here because it was by far one of the cheaper hostels in Paris but I do not recommend it. The hostel lacks any character, no one talks to one another and the staff are unfriendly. At first, I thought maybe it was just my experience until I met up with a friend in Amsterdam who had the same experience. He described the chain of hostels as a factory. Not only that but the bathrooms weren't clean. The hostel was cheap and in a great location - but if you're looking for a place with a bit more character, I'd stay elsewhere.
How to get around in Paris
Most tourists take taxis or the subway from tourist attraction to tourist attraction - I walked. It took me three hours to find The Arc de Triomphe but along the way, I stopped in cafes and art galleries and properly observed the city and its wonderful local people. Walking is the only way to see Paris - don't be a tourist. If in doubt, take the metro.
What to try in Paris
Make sure you try a French espresso - it's like a tequila shot although I've been warned that Italian coffee is even stronger. French bread is also a must-try.
What to wear in Paris
The stereotypes about Parisians are true. They dress with style and grace. Don't be the tourist in khaki and never ever get caught wearing shorts. While I was there I observed a woman old enough to be my Grandmother in a pink wig and black trench coat, complete with a French beret. I couldn't help but imagine her a part of the infamous student riots in the 1960s. Do your best to fit in by wearing your most outlandish and colourful outfit. The locals will respect you for it.