Exploring Istanbul’s Feriköy Antika Pazarı
From homemade gözleme and Turkish rugs to vintage homeware and records all the way from the Antipodes, Feriköy Antika Pazari is one of the most unique experiences to be had in Istanbul.
Before me lies a sea of plastic pop-up tables in varying shades of grey, white and blue. Turkish carpets, watches, old analogue cameras, traditional lamps and lights are showcased side by side with old Ottoman antiques, chipped Chinese tea cups and 1970s-style dinner plate sets that make me nostalgic for my Grandmother’s kitchen. To my left, a group of women are standing in a line cooking fresh gözleme for just ₺80 a pop. Options include potato, cheese, eggplant, green (which I presume is spinach) or a mix of all four. It was ₺50 last week - the first sign I’ve seen of Turkey’s growing inflation problem.
To my right, box upon box of vintage records, organised and stacked neatly in large storage bins, are begging to be sifted through. The vendor is an older gentleman with a portly frame and a thick greying moustache that covers most of his lower face. I approach cautiously, smiling at the man who has shrouded his plastic table with a navy cloth. He nods in return. Gözleme will have to wait.
Held every Sunday in the trendy area of Şişli, sandwiched between Taksim Square and the towering hotels and apartment buildings of nearby Bomonti, Feriköy Antika Pazari is the largest and most popular antique market in Istanbul. Week to week the crowd perusing the aisles is an eclectic mix of both the curious and the collector - and it’s little one wonder why. I arrived less than an hour ago and I’ve already picked up a record by queer Turkish pop icon Zeki Müren and a silver necklace with an amber pendant (authenticity unknown). There’s a dazzling array of treasures and oddities to be found here including antique coins and currency, Turkish rugs, vintage clothing, homeware and even the odd record (or two).
Flicking through the man’s wares record by record, I strike gold. Men at Work’s Business As Usual from 1981 in near perfect condition peers up at me from behind its plastic cover. Bingo.
“How much?” I ask, pulling the record out of the box for a better look. The vendor types a number into his calculator and shows it to me.
“600 lira?” I ask and he nods. “No card,” he says in a thick accent. “Only cash.”
The prices at the market can be a little higher for tourists - but the joy of the Feriköy Antika Pazari isn’t just the hunt or the allure of snagging a bargain. It’s in the salty smell of hot pastry that drifts through the stalls and the opportunity to hear Istanbul locals debate with one another over cups of hot Turkish tea. It’s the kind of authentic travel experience tourists seek abroad that doesn’t come with a massive price tag - unless, of course, you decide to purchase an antique rug from one of the market’s many vendors. Entry is free and an earlier visit is advised if you’re looking for a bit of peace and quiet, although witnessing two locals converse, their faces obscured by steaming hot chai, amidst the chaos and the crowds is a part of the quintessential experience.
As I soon found out, haggling is allowed but not always encouraged. As I’m typing sorry I don’t have the cash into my translation app, the man leans over to his radio and presses play. We both chuckle as the familiar opening riff from Down Under sounds from the speakers.
My rumbling stomach tells me it’s time for gözleme. I leave Men At Work behind, opting for a combination of cheese, potato and green - which does in fact turn out to be spinach - and sit down in one of the plastic chairs to watch the row of women knead, roll and flatten out the dough. A few minutes later, a plate of crisp pastry is placed before me. I rip the gözleme with my fingers, spooning a hot mix of cheesy potato and spinach into my mouth as the market carries on around us, unabated.
Feriköy Antika Pazari is held every Sunday from 9 am to 6 pm in Şişli, an upmarket area in central Istanbul. Haggling is optional but gözleme is mandatory. You can read more about Istanbul in my Istanbul Travel Guide.