Lost on the Bosphorus: The Cheapest Boat Tour in Istanbul
The commuter ferry running daily from Eminönü to Rumeli Kavağı may be the cheapest and most scenic way of touring Istanbul’s Bosphorus Strait.
Bebek Arnavutköy from the Bosphorus Strait
Arriving at Istanbul’s harbourside neighbourhood of Eminönü earlier that afternoon, the battle for a spot on the next ferry had already begun and tensions in the terminal were running as hot as the city’s sidewalks. I stood my ground, battling with tourists, street vendors and commuters alike for a seat on the outer deck - failing in the mayhem of flying suitcases, shouting and shoving to check which ferry I was elbowing my way onto.
As the ferry cuts through the turquoise waters of the Bosphorus Strait, I realise I’ve made an error. Stopping at Ortaköy and Arnavutköy, both popular neighbourhoods in European Istanbul, the ferry continues to dawdle up the strait, passing Üsküdar on the Asian side without so much as a second glance. Çamlıca Mosque, usually towering over the city from its perch atop Çamlıca Hil, disappears into the distance until all I can see is the tip of its 6 minarets. As the crowds I fought for my seat begin to dwindle little by little with every stop, so do my hopes of wiling away the afternoon perusing the antique stores and hip cafes of Kadıköy, a neighbourhood on Istanbul’s Asian side.
For those familiar with Istanbul’s ferry network, it takes approximately twenty minutes to ferry across the Bosphorus Strait from Eminönü to the city’s trendy Asian neighbourhoods. However, as I quickly found out, in the chaos of the city’s ferry terminals, it’s easy to find yourself on a lengthy tour of the city’s dividing strait.
It didn’t take long for me to realise my mistake. Instead of turning east towards Asia, my ferry was heading towards Rumeli Kavağı, a village 2 hours north of Istanbul best known for its seafood restaurants and pretty green bay. Unbeknownst to me when I fought my way onto the ferry, I had accidentally discovered the cheapest (and most scenic) boat tour in Istanbul.
For just ₺28 (£0.85), the ferry from Eminönü to Rumeli Kavağı may be the best way of seeing the Bosphorus Strait. While the route may not have the extravagances of an official boat tour (local fare paired with unlimited wine is often a selling point here), the 4-hour-long scenic excursion is the pinnacle of slow travel. There’s no wine but fresh orange juice can be purchased onboard for a whopping ₺30 a pop (£0.88).
I start up a conversation with Menice and Zumral, two friends sitting to my left who’ve been chatting away with one another for the past 45 minutes. As well as boasting exceptional local seafood, I soon find out that Rumeli Kavağı is home to Istanbul’s most northerly ferry terminal. “We can turn back there together,” Menice tells me.
As I chat with my new pals, a throng of seagulls travel alongside the ferry. Some hover just above the water while others ascend and dive with mesmerising precision above the strait’s twinkling waters. Menice asks me if I have children.
“İnşallah,” she says, Zumral nodding in agreement next to her.
“The time will come.”
On the banks just a few metres away, picturesque harbours not unlike the Italian Riviera drift past. An eclectic mix of rural communities boasting a more traditional way of life, intermingled with pastel-coloured mansions, historic European-style villas, grand palaces and the odd ancient ruin are scattered along the waterfront, poking out from the lush greenery that covers the hillside. Nearer to us, wooden dinghies dip in and out of the water, floating next to larger, more elaborate boats and yachts. Istanbul is hardly a city of subtle nuance.
As we near Rumeli Kavağı, I spot the happiest man in Turkey - sans shirt, smoking cheap tobacco and sunbathing in his fishing boat. Remnants of the Ottomans can be seen in the summer residences of Turkey’s wealthy elite that litter the shore. As promised, there are also several restaurants carved into the hillside advertising today’s catch via worn-out chalkboards. In the terminal, which is nothing more than a large wooden shed, a stray kedi sleeps curled up on the windowsill. In the distance, the Bosphorus Strait widens to meet the Black Sea.
2 hours later, it’s still light although the heat is starting to waver and the late afternoon sunshine has transformed the strait from turquoise to a rich amber. Passing Üsküdar for the second time, the minarets at Istanbul’s Çamlıca Mosque sound the call to prayer. The ferry quietens as the call rolls out over the water. Opposite me, Menice and Zumral sit still shoulder to shoulder in quiet contemplation.
Sometimes it pays to take the scenic route. Allahu akbar. God is great.
The ferry to Rumeli Kavağı runs daily from Eminönü in central Istanbul. You can read more about Istanbul in my Istanbul Travel Guide.