Is Lisbon Worth the Hype? | Lisbon Travel Guide

When I got caught in a downpour in central Lisbon on a Thursday afternoon, all I could do was laugh. After all, I expected rain in Portugal about as much as I anticipated a warm sunny day in the solemn depths of a Wellington winter. I had no umbrella and no coat. My phone battery was about to die and I was a good 40 minutes walk uphill from the hostel. So I ran to a museum across the street. Unable to pay the entry fee in cash, I found myself sheltering in the doorway, making conversation with one of the staff.

I thought it was supposed to be sunny in Lisbon!

I gestured at the downpour which was getting heavier by the minute.

He replied in between long drags on his cheap European cigarette.

In Lisbon, we have problems with the weather - especially this year

So when it rains, it is a miracle

I’m not religious, I never really have been. I do believe in fate and soulmates, but only to an extent. Although I don’t believe in miracles, standing in the doorway staring out over the square I had to agree with this man - the rain that day was miraculous.

I’ll admit when I first arrived in Lisbon, I wasn’t having the best week. Despite running halfway around the world, my old life in New Zealand caught up to me. Coupled with the decision to leave my au pair placement early, I arrived in Lisbon feeling nauseous and exhausted - my head was full of stress and worries. I couldn’t rest, and for the life of me, I could not write. So when I got caught in the rain in Lisbon, I couldn’t help but feel as if all the confrontation and stress was washed away. The negativity flowed from my pores and off my body, running down the street between the cobblestones. It mingled with the dirt and dislodged old cigarettes, to fall down the drain in droves. I was clean.

Lisbon heals. The sweet scent of sea salt and smoky burnt chestnuts seems to permanently permeate the air. There’s a stooped old man on every street corner shining shoes. The buildings are coloured like a spiral lollypop you’d purchase at a school fair - from candy floss pink and sunshine yellow, to mint green and Pacific Ocean blue. Some are also covered with hand-painted tiles and mosaics. Others are indistinguishable under a shield of violet bougainvillaea, the petals of which spill into the street and cover the sidewalk like a violently purple shag carpet.

Day One in Lisbon

Walking down the weathered streets towards the sea, ambling behind the chattering of tourists and locals alike, I felt a rhythm in the air - a feeling of anticipation, like the city was on the brink, with her people lying in wait on pause pondering, on what was to happen. After two months in France, Lisbon was a breath of fresh air. Most of the locals spoke fluent English and happily gave me directions. They taught me Portuguese phrases and gave me recommendations on where to go and what to eat. The wine was cheap and the seafood was delicious. The men were beautiful, friendly and respectable, and the architecture had me in awe.

My first few hours I wandered all over the city, stopping in at tiny cafes and chatting with the locals. I climbed to the top of the Church of Santa Engrácia and gazed at the view. Later I visited the tile museum and after gazing in awe at the hand-painted 16th-century azulejo for several hours, I found some Pastel de Nata in a local cafe.

Day Two in Lisbon

On my second day, I ended up on a walking tour with an amazing group of young women. We walked through the Mouraria district and heard Fado music for the first time. Back in the day, the Mouraria neighbourhood was home to fishing families. The men were away for months at a time, so in order to survive the women became prostitutes and to express themselves, sang Fado. For those of you who don’t know, Portuguese Fado is the musical expression of saudade - the word doesn’t have an English translation but loosely means to yearn or long for something (or someone) you no longer have. The neighbourhood itself had a quiet, electric vibe to it and to hear Fado sing was like nothing I’d ever experienced.

Day Three in Lisbon

The next day, on a chilly Saturday morning, I headed to Sintra with the same group. We hiked through the national park and explored the little town. Unfortunately, we didn’t make it to Quinta da Regaleira, the infamous well, but the walk through the park was well worth the effort and Pena Palace was beautiful.

Later that night, we headed back to Lisbon for a feast in a diner called American Music Burger. The restaurant reminded me a little of the diner where Vincent and Mia Wallace eat dinner in Pulp Fiction - like a wax museum with a pulse as John Travolta‘s character so eloquently put it. Needless to say, the food and wine in Lisbon did not disappoint. The city is incredibly affordable - after two months in France, I borderline felt like I was ripping the locals off. Seafood that would have cost you two more mortgages and the soul of your firstborn anywhere else in Western Europe only cost a few bucks, and you can easily pick up a bottle of wine for a euro from the local dairy. Needless to say, I ate very well. There is no lack of restaurants or cafes in the city, and it was very easy for a skint traveller such as myself to feast well.

Day Four & Five in Lisbon

On the weekend, I walked to Bairro Alto with another group from the hostel - the infamous bar district was well worth the hike. I purchased sangria for a euro and chatted with other partygoers on the side of the road. Bairro Alto is the sort of place where you can drink and dance right on the cobblestone street under the stars. When you get hungry you can purchase a hot chorizo sandwich from one of the various vendors who populate the area, and when you feel like moving or making love you simply wander into one of the clubs and dance shoulder to shoulder back to back in the little dimly-lit brick rooms. I'll admit I did have one too many cups of sangria - if there is such a thing.

In conclusion, I fell in love with Lisbon. Until I return I will; think of nothing else but the salty smell of the sea that drifts in from the harbour and the smoking locals lounging in quaint cafes, sipping their Expressos and nippling at sweet pastries.

What to see in Lisbon

For €4 you can check out the beautiful Church of Santa Engrácia, and climb to the terrace for spectacular views. Sintra was also gorgeous but very touristy and expensive. The town is definitely worth a visit but if you're looking to purchase souvenirs have a look in the city. A hike through the national park to Pena Palace and the Moorish Castle is worth the achy legs.

Where to stay in Lisbon

I stayed at The Urban Garden Hostel, and to be completely honest this hostel is one of the best places in Europe I've stayed. The staff were amazing and as soon as I walked in I noticed there was a really positive and happy vibe - the hostel is social without being too crazy. They also offer a pancake breakfast.

What to try in Lisbon

Be sure to try Pasteis de Belém and hot chocolate at Pasteis de Belém - this cafe is one of the oldest in Lisbon and still serves the original top-secret Pasteis de Belém recipe - a traditional Portuguese dessert. I would describe it almost like a custard tart, but even that description doesn't come close to the real thing. The cafe itself seats 400 people. We were lucky enough to see friends from the hostel and very cheekily cut the queue. If you're not as lucky as us, be prepared for a wait. Ginja is also worth a try. It’s a very sweet cherry liquor. The Portuguese drink it in little chocolate cups and it's absolutely delicious, but it does pack a punch. You've been warned. Last but not least, don’t forget to try sangria in the neighbourhood of Bairro Alto and a Nepalese curry at Sanskar Nepal - they specialise in vegan and vegetarian curries, and will not disappoint.