The Ultimate Guide to Visiting Istanbul | Istanbul Travel Guide 2023
If you’re looking for an Istanbul travel guide, you’ve certainly come to the right place. Like every other backpacker, I’ve dreamt of exploring the city for as long as I can remember. So when I got the opportunity to spend a month in Istanbul volunteering in a hostel in bustling Sirkeci, I (quite literally) leapt at the chance.
The evening I arrived in Istanbul, Eid was in full swing and the city was absolutely manic. The bus driver let everyone off early because the traffic was so slow to move that it was quicker (and more comfortable) to walk to the next stop than to sit on a sweltering hot bus packed with people. This is how I found myself on Galata Bridge at sunset.
The fishermen who populate the bridge at all hours morning and night were casting their lines into the fast-flowing strait. Tourists and locals alike were bumping shoulders, weaving in and out of the traffic which by this point had come to a complete standstill. The sun was setting, casting the Rustem Pasha Mosque and the surrounding buildings in a lavender glow, and flocks of seagulls were flying in hordes around the mosque’s spiralling minarets.
This was my first taste of Turkey’s largest city. With thousands of years of history, a population nearing 20 million and more than 30 different districts to explore (39 to be exact and each with its own unique aesthetic, traditions and local culture), nothing can prepare you for Istanbul. In saying that, the city has a certain rhythm to it. There is a sense of organised chaos that can take a couple of days to get used to - but once you’re in tune with the city, you’ll never want to leave.
Is Istanbul in Europe or Asia?
Istanbul straddles the Bosphorus Strait, a fast-moving, naturally occurring strait that separates the European continent from Asia. The strait connects The Black Sea to the north with the Sea of Marmara to the south. As a result, Istanbul is one of the few cities in the world where you can have lunch in Asia and dinner in Europe - on the same day. As a result, the city is the gateway to both Europe and Asia (depending on which way you’re heading).
On my first full day here, I spotted a woman walking across Galata Bridge in the tiniest pair of shorts I’d ever seen and a see-through t-shirt next to a woman in a burka. It’s little wonder why Istanbul is often described as a city of contrasts and colliding cultures, which move in situ side by side.
Where to stay in Istanbul
Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey. It’s also the largest city in Europe and the 7th most populated city in the world. As a result, it’s easy to get overwhelmed when booking a trip here - after all, what are the best neighbourhoods in Istanbul?
At the end of the day, it comes down to the kind of vibe you’re after. Visitors after tourist hotspots should opt for neighbourhoods such as Sirkeci or nearby Sultanahmet, but if you’re looking for a more chill, down-to-earth atmosphere, you might like to check out Moda or Karaköy.
When it comes to choosing your accommodation, it’s important to note that Booking.com is currently banned in Turkey for not paying their taxes (as they should be). I’m a Hostel World girly myself, but if Booking.com is your usual travelling go-to, make sure you book in advance as you won’t be able to access the website while you’re in Istanbul.
The best neighbourhoods in Istanbul
Sirkeci
Sirkeci is a neighbourhood in the Eminönü district of Istanbul. I stayed there for a month at Second Home Hostel, where I worked as a volunteer through Workaway. Located only 15 minutes’ walk from Sultanahmet where you’ll find the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, it’s a great neighbourhood to stay in if you’re looking for a central location close to all the action. There are also a number of restaurants, cafes and bars in the area.
Beyoğlu
The district of Beyoğlu on the European side of Istanbul is one of the oldest inhabited districts in the city. Originally known as Pera, the rich diversity and charm of modern Beyoğlu is a testament to the cultural mark left by the various communities and ethnic groups over the years that have made the area their home.
Karaköy
Historically one of Istanbul’s most important ports, Karaköy has transformed over the years from a bustling industrial hub to one of the city’s trendiest neighbourhoods. Not to be confused with Kadiköy on the Asian side of the city, Karaköy has it all - from designer boutiques and art galleries to hip cafes and trendy hotels. It’s also a great spot to base your stay in Istanbul with easy access to the ferry and Istanbul’s busy Sultanahmet neighbourhood just across Galata Bridge.
Galata
Originally a medieval walled city founded by Genoese and Venetian merchants, Galata (pronounced ghe-lata) is one of the most historically significant areas in the city. While it isn’t my favourite neighbourhood in Istanbul, it’s still absolutely worth a visit, boasting the 14th-century Galata Tower, winding cobblestone streets and a number of handy amenities for tourists including hotels, hostels and modern cafes.
Galata is a great spot to stay if you like to be in the hustle and bustle - however, if you’re looking for somewhere accessible or a little quieter, it is definitely not the spot for you. Steep climbs up and down the slippery cobblestones can make getting to Galata an absolute nightmare even for an able-bodied person. The Galata Tower is also one of Istanbul’s most popular tourist attractions, meaning the neighbourhood is often extremely busy.
Balat
Easily one of my favourite spots on the European side of the city, you’ll find vibrant Balat sandwiched between Fener and Ayvansaray on the western shore of Istanbul’s Goldern Horn. Most famous for the row of delightfully colourful houses on Kiremit Street, the neighbourhood boasts a number of cafes (including a New Zealand coffee roastery), several antique furniture shops, vintage clothing stores and a number of very Instagrammable buildings in a variety of colours.
Kadiköy
Situated almost directly opposite the city’s popular Sultanahmet neighbourhood, Kadiköy is the most southerly district on the Asian side of Istanbul. Often mistaken for a neighbourhood, Kadiköy (pronounced kadi-koi) is actually a district in it’s own right with multiple up and coming neighbourhoods and communities peppered throughout the Kadiköy area.
Kadiköy is often overlooked by visitors due to it’s distance from Istanbul’s major tourist sites. However, if you have at least a week here, it’s actually the perfect base to explore the city. This is mainly due to the fact it’s away from the hustle and bustle of Istanbul, yet only a twenty minute ferry ride to the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque and other popular landmarks. The area is also well known for it’s laidback vibe and trendy cafes. It’s a popular spot for locals too to both live and work, meaning visitors to the city can get to know the real Istanbul away from the crowds of tourists on the European side.
Moda
Moda is a neighbourhood in Kadiköy, on the Asian side of Istanbul. It’s my favourite spot in the city - and I’m not the only one. Youthful and undeniably hip, Moda offers an eclectic combination of cafes, vintage clothing shops and bookstores, international eateries, traditional Turkish fare and street art with a distinctly local, down-to-earth vibe.
Üsküdar
Üsküdar is a large residential area on the Asian side of Istanbul. It’s north of Kadiköy and can also be reached from the European side by ferry or metro. Like Kadiköy, Üsküdar isn’t touristy and offers a more local vibe - although it’s not nearly as hip and/or trendy. The main reason for travelling to Üsküdar is to see the Çamlıca Mosque and the absolutely terrific view from Çamlıca Hill.
To see local life in Üsküdar, there’s also the neighbourhoods of Kuzhuncuk, Beylerbeyi and Çengelköy. Just don’t go expecting the tourist attractions of Sultanahmet or Galata.
What to do in Istanbul
From admiring the city’s grand mosques in Sultanahmet to perusing the quirky museums of Beyoğlu, there is no shortage of things to do in Istanbul.
The European Side of Istanbul
With winding cobblestone streets, historic neighbourhoods and a plethora of tourist hotspots, it’s little wonder so many visitors to Istanbul choose to stay on, eat at and explore Istanbul’s European side. If you only have a few days in the city, there is more than enough to do here to keep even the most active tourist completely occupied.
Hagia Sophia
Also known as the Aya Sophia, this grand church-turned-mosque-turned-museum-turned-mosque is probably Istanbul’s most iconic building. I was lucky enough to get a tour from another guest at my hostel who just happened to have multiple degrees in history and archaeology. Needless to say, both the Hagia Sophia and the land it was built on have seen some shit. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.
Completed in 537 AD under the watchful eye of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, the mosque was originally a church. When Constantinople fell to the Ottoman Empire in 1453, Sultan Mehmed I ordered the building be converted into a mosque. Over the years, the plaster used to cover up the church’s original iconography has worn away, making the Hagia Sophia the only mosque in the world with imagery of Mary and Jesus portrayed on her walls.
The land the Hagia Sophia is built on also has a fascinating history. For example, before the Hagia Sophia was built, there was The Megale Ekklesia. Commissioned by Emperor Constantine I in 325 AD and destroyed in a riot during 404 AD, the church was rebuilt and then destroyed again in 532 AD. Justinian I then decided to build the Hagia Sophia, which is the building we see today, although Sultan Mehmed I made quite a few adjustments when he took over the city.
Why is the Hagia Sophia called Sophia?
When the Hagia Sophia was built, Justinian I dedicated the building to Theia Sophia, the second element of the Christian trinity. The mosque is also known as Aya Sophia, with Aya meaning holy or saint and Sophia meaning wisdom.
What is the dress code at the Hagia Sophia?
The Hagia Sophia was converted from a museum back into a mosque in 2020. As a result, visitors must adhere to the dress code. Men must cover their legs, and women must cover their legs and arms, as well as wear a head scarf to cover their hair. Visitors who forget to dress modestly will be made to purchase a branded poncho at the door - this will set you back just ₺100 (£2.88) but does make a fun tourist souvenir.
Is the Hagia Sophia free?
Entry to both the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque is free. Just make sure you dress appropriately and double-check the prayer times before you go - visitors can not enter the mosque when people are praying.
The Blue Mosque
Also known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, the Blue Mosque is situated directly opposite Istanbul’s iconic Hagia Sophia, meaning most tourists can tick both mosques off their bucket list in an afternoon. However, unlike the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque was purpose-built as a mosque. Constructed from 1609 to 1616, the building is most famous for its stunning hand-painted blue tiles and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.
The Blue Mosque was constructed after a series of devasting losses for Sultan Ahmed I, who decided to build the mosque as a way of reasserting his own power as well as the might of the Ottoman Empire. The mosque was built on the site of an old Byzantine palace directly in front of the Hagia Sophia and the historic Hippodrome. Large parts of the mosque rest on the foundations and old vaults of the palace.
Make sure you look out for the mihrab at both the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque. The mihrab at the Blue Mosque sits smack bang in the centre of the mosque, whereas the mihrab at the Hagia Sophia is noticeably askew. This is because the Blue Mosque was built as a mosque, whereas the Hagia Sophia was originally a church - the Hagia Sophia doesn’t point towards Mecca in the way a mosque usually would, so adjustments had to be made when it was converted back in 1453.
What is the dress code at the Blue Mosque?
The dress code at the Blue Mosque is the same as at the Hagia Sophia. Men should wear long pants and women should dress modestly, meaning you must cover your legs, arms and head. Unlike the Hagia Sophia, scarfs are available free of charge at the door if you forget your own.
The Grand Bazaar
Also known as the Büyük Çarşı, meaning grand market in Turkish, The Grand Bazaar is one of the oldest and largest markets in the world with 61 covered streets and more than 4,000 shops. The market dates back to 1455 and is considered the world’s first-ever mall.
To be completely honest, I wasn’t convinced by The Grand Bazaar. In fact, it was probably my least favourite tourist attraction I visited in Istanbul. It didn’t feel particularly authentic and the combination of artificial lighting and relentless salespeople failed to convince me I was walking around one of the oldest and most historically significant sites in Istanbul. Regardless, it’s still worth a visit. Just bear in mind that it’s a top tourist attraction in Istanbul with somewhere between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors a day. Expect crowds of tourists with little to no spatial awareness, harassment from vendors and a lot of tourist traps and overpriced goods - I was told to avoid buying anything in the bazaar for this reason.
The Spice Bazaar
Also known as Mısır Çarşısı (Egyptian Bazaar in Turkish), The Spice Baazar was constructed in 1660 and is the second most famous bazaar in Istanbul after the city’s Grand Bazaar. The building itself was built as a part of the complex of the New Mosque, with profits from the market going to its upkeep.
The Spice Baazar is everything I thought The Grand Bazaar would be. I’m talking high ceilings, beautiful little stalls and mountains of fragrant spices and exotic teas that are illuminated by warm, golden lighting. Consisting of 85 shops, most stalls sell an array of spices, dried fruit, nuts, Turkish delight and other popular Turkish sweets as well as jewellery and tourist souvenirs. The vendors also approach you but in my experience, they aren’t super pushy.
You should still avoid buying anything in the bazaar itself due to inflated prices and the inability to haggle (most prices are fixed and high unfortunately). However, if you walk all the way through, you’ll find an expansive shopping area behind the bazaar where you can buy anything and everything - for less than in both The Grand Bazaar and The Spice Bazaar.
The Museum of Innocence
The Museum of Innocence (Masumiyet Müzesi in Turkish) is a fascinating museum that centres around a fictional love affair set against the backdrop of late 20th-century Istanbul. The artefacts at the museum were collected by author Orhan Pamuk in tandem with his novel of the same name.
The narrative of both the book and the museum collection tells the story of Kemal, a member of the wealthy elite in Istanbul, who falls in love with Füsun, a shop-girl. The collection at the museum displays objects from their love story, including shoes, earrings, novels, vintage Turkish advertisements and even a collection of cigarette butts. While the story of Kemal and his love Füsun is fictional, The Museum of Innocence offers visitors a unique glimpse into upper-class life in Istanbul from the 1970s up to the 2000s.
Entry is just ₺250. The museum is quite small but if you have a few hours to kill, I’d recommend getting an audio guide which can be hired for ₺10. I highly recommend doing so, especially if you haven’t read the book.
You can read more about the museum on BBC Travel here.
Galata Tower
Built as a watch tower in 1348 by the Genoese, the Galata Tower is an iconic symbol of Istanbul and the neighbourhood of Galata. It’s one of the oldest towers in the world still standing and is a popular spot for tourists looking to get a decent view of Istanbul. According to travel writer Evliya Çelebi, Hezarfen Ahmed Çelebi completed the world’s first-ever intercontinental flight from the tower in 1638 when he (allegedly) strapped wings to his back and flew across the Bosphorus Strait.
Today, you can walk up the stairs for a €10 entry fee as well as visit the Galata Tower Museum (wings not included). Legend also has it that couples who ascend the tower together will be immortalised forever so there’s always a pretty gnarly queue to get to the top.
Feriköy Antika Pazarı
The Feriköy Antika Pazarı is the largest open-air antiques market in Istanbul. Held every Sunday, the market boasts a delightful array of secondhand wares, from Turkish rugs and vintage cameras to records, clothing and mid-century furniture. It’s also the best place in the city to try gözleme - a kind of savoury stuffed pancake made fresh right in front of you. In my opinion, it’s the best and most authentic way of experiencing local culture in Istanbul.
The Asian Side of Istanbul
Unlike Istanbul’s popular European side, the Asian side of the city isn’t particularly touristy. It offers a more chill vibe with down-to-earth cafes, tattoo parlours and hippie stores. You can also watch the local people go about their day and see more of day-to-day life in Istanbul. For that reason, I prefer the Asian side to the European side of the city. There’s less hustle and bustle, as well as a number of vintage stores and occult shops, cute cafes and green spaces to explore.
The Kadiköy Bull
The Kadiköy Bull is one of the only tourist attractions on the Asian side of Istanbul. Situated in a busy intersection, the story of the statue is actually pretty wild.
Created by French Sculptor Isidore Bonheur in 1864, the bull started it’s life in a square in France where it commemorated a French victory against the Germans. A few years later, the German would take over the Alsace-Lorraine region and steal the bull for themselves.
Cut to the first World War and the Germans have allied with the Ottoman Empire. In 1917, Kaiser Wilhelm II sends the bull as a gift to Enver Paşa, an Ottoman general. The bull is erected at the Yıldız Palace, which is then abandoned in 1918 when the war is lost. Enver Paşa flees and the bull is left behind until 1955 when it’s moved to the Istanbul Hilton Hotel. In 1970, the bull makes it’s first ever intercontinental trip across the Bosphorous Strait to Kadiköy where it’s placed in the Kadiköy Municipality Building.
In 1990, the bull is moved to (hopefully) it’s final spot in the centre of Kadiköy’s busy Altıyol Intersection. Today, it’s the most popular meeting spot for locals in the neighbourhood. A selfie is a must.
Çamlıca Mosque
If you’ve been for a trip down the Bosphorus Strait, you’ve probably seen the Çamlıca Mosque. Sitting atop Çamlıca Hill, it’s the largest mosque in Turkey, accommodating 63,000 worshippers at any one time. The mosque can also host 100,000 people in the event of a natural disaster such as an earthquake. Basically, it’s bloody massive.
Opened in 2019, Çamlıca Mosque lacks the historical grandeur of the Hagia Sophia or the Blue Mosque. Regardless, it’s still worth a visit for the view alone. At 288 metres above sea level, Çamlıca Hill is the highest point in Istanbul and offers panoramic views of the city and the Bosphorus.
The mosque was also inspired by classic Ottoman architecture and to put it bluntly, is absolutely stunning. The main dome stands at 72 metres which symbolises the 72 nationalities of Istanbul. It’s also 34 metres wide, which is the official car number plate of the city. To top things off, the gates welcoming visitors to the mosque are one some of the largest in the world to be present in a place of worship. The main gate is 5 metres long and 6.5 metres high, with a total weight of 6 tons.
Like any other mosque, make sure you wear suitable clothing and do not try to enter at prayer time. I also recommend bringing sunglasses - I forgot mine and the white marble made it almost impossible to open my eyes. To get here, catch the ferry or take the B1 metro line to Üsküdar, then catch the 15C bus. It’ll take you all the way to the top and save you an hour’s walk one way.
The Princes’ Islands
Undoubtedly the best place for the swim in Istanbul (see the FAQ below for more on this), the Princes’ Islands are a set of nine small islands off the coast of the city. Located in the Sea of Marmara, many princes and other members of the aristocracy were exiled there during the Byzantine Empire, which is how the islands earned their name. After the conquest of Constantinople, members of prominent Ottoman families were also exiled there when they fell out of favour.
These days, the Princes’ Islands are most famous for being car-free. The most popular mode of transportation is by bicycle. At the highest point of Büyükada, the largest island, you’ll find a 6th-century church with panoramic views. There’s also a spooky abandoned orphanage - the largest wooden structure in Europe and the second largest in the world - which has fallen into disrepair.
The Best Cafes in Istanbul
Istanbul is well known for its diverse array of cafes. From traditional Turkish fare to modern eats, here’s a few different spots to get you started.
Farihye Cafe, Kadiköy
Over the past month, Farihye Cafe has become my favourite and most visited cafe in Istanbul. Located in the trendy neighbourhood of Moda in Kadiköy, the cafe offers up a delectable array of delicious coffee and fresh homemade food including Farihye Coffee (a special type of coffee from Diyarbakır) and homemade Ayran with mint.
Hector Louis Coffee, Kadiköy
Hector Louis Coffee was one of the first cafes I found when exploring Kadiköy. It’s slightly more expensive than other cafes in the area but the higher prices are worth it for the vibes alone. It’s also a great spot for people watching. I highly recommend the iced lavender latte.
Maruf Sahaf & Kahve, Kadiköy
Maruf Sahaf & Kahve is one of those places you would never find unless someone told you about it. Located down an alleyway in Kadiköy, this peaceful cafe is actually the home of a lovely older couple - the kitchen where they prepare your order is their own and the outer patio area is the old entranceway. As a result, the atmosphere of Maruf Sahaf & Kahve can only be described as cosy and homely. Photos from the couple’s travels don the walls and there’s plants everywhere. It’s a must visit if you’re looking to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
Cafe da Giovanni, Beyoğlu
I found this European style cafe while wandering through Istanbul’s trendy Beyoğlu district one afternoon. If you’re working remotely or simply need somewhere to escape the hustle and bustle for a few hours, it’s a great spot for an iced latte and a bite to eat. The staff are also super friendly. I highly recommend the salmon quiche paired with an iced latte.
Other Places to Eat in Istanbul
Tarihi Boğazkesen Simit Fırını
I spotted this bakery when I was walking back to my hostel one night. Fresh pastries and bread are baked every day by the sweetest wee Turkish man who’ll greet you at the door. I highly recommend the poğaça - for just ₺10 (£0.29), I guarantee you’ll be going back for seconds.
Turgut Kebap
This little restaurant just down the road from the Hagia Sophia is one of my favourite restaurants in the city. I highly recommend trying the lahmacun - it was the best I had in Istanbul.
Ehli Keyf Cafe
For breakfast close to Istanbul’s tourist hotspots, I recommend Ehli Keyf Cafe. The prices are very reasonable considering the cafe’s proximity to Sultanahmet and the food is fresh and delicious.
North Art Coffee
When I first came across this cafe, I was convinced I was about to get ripped off. This was mainly due to its proximity to the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. While I was right to be wary of any cafe or restaurant in Sultanahmet, I needn’t have been frightened of North Art Coffee. It’s not cheap but considering the cafe’s location the prices are very reasonable. The food was also absolutely delicious - I highly recommend pairing the holbein with a piping hot Turkish coffee.
Food to try in Istanbul
Dolma
There are several different types of dolma (meaning “stuffed”). The two you’ll see most often are a combination of rice and seasonal herbs wrapped in vine leaves (also known as sarma, meaning “wrapped”), or biber dolma which is a pepper (a capsicum for my antipodean readers) stuffed with a similar concoction of meat and rice.
Poğaça
Poğaça is a type of bread cooked in the ashes of a Turkish fireplace. It’s often stuffed with white cheese (feta) and sprinkled with poppy seeds. Best eaten on the go while trying to navigate the steep slopes of Beyoğlu.
Muhammara
I first tried Muhammara in the hostel where I was staying. It’s a type of spicy red pepper dip often made with walnuts, pomegranate molasses and breadcrumbs, although the hostel chef still won’t tell me his secret ingredient.
Iskender Kebap
If there’s one thing you have to try when in Istanbul, it’s iskender. A traditional Turkish dish made from sliced döner meat, hot tomato sauce and pita bread, it’s best eaten with a generous slather of sheep's milk butter and/or yoghurt. Cutlery is optional.
Lahmacun
Over the past month, lahmacun has easily become one of my favourite dishes. It’s a type of flatbread which is topped with minced meat, vegetables such as onion, garlic, tomatoes and red pepper, as well as herbs including parsley, chilli and paprika. It’s then baked and served with an assortment of different salad vegetables - top the flatbread with your salad and a good amount of lemon, then roll it into a wrap/burrito-type shape and feast.
Türk Kahvesi
Türk Kahvesi, more commonly known as Turkish coffee, is made of finely ground coffee beans which are traditionally brewed in a copper pot called a cezve. These days, it’s more likely to be made in a specially designed machine but it’s still deliciously strong and aromatic.
Ayran
Like hummus and dolma, no one is really 100% sure where Ayran comes from. Made with yoghurt, water and salt, it’s believed to have been invented by Turkic nomadic tribes who needed a drink that both quenched their thirst and their hunger when they were travelling. It’s ideal on hot summer days in Istanbul and can be purchased pretty much anywhere for just ₺30 (£0.87). The homemade ayran with mint at Fariyhe Cafe is slightly more at ₺50 (£1.46) but it’s absolutely worth a try.
Other Istanbul Travel Advice
The cats of Istanbul
One of the first things you’re going to notice in Istanbul is the cats. I’m not exaggerating when I say they’re everywhere.
There are a number of theories as to why there are approximately 125,000 cats on the streets of the city. One theory is that the Ottomans revered cats for their ability to hunt. This would make sense as cats are considered sacred in Islam - after all, it was a cat who protected the Prophet Muhammad while he was praying from a deadly snake attack. Another theory is that cats were put to work protecting grain from rats and other rodents in ancient Mesopotamia, which is now part of modern-day Turkey.
Whatever the reason, the cats in Istanbul have become interwoven with the cultural fabric of the city. The locals take care of the strays in their neighbourhood, offering them food, shelter and water. In return, you won’t see a single rat. If you do, you’ll know that rodent is a true survivor.
Touring the Bosphorus Strait
Touring the Bosphorus Strait is an absolute must-do when in Istanbul. For travellers looking to splurge, there are numerous official boat tours of the strait complete with dinner, wine and a glorious view of the sun setting over the city.
However, for those of us on a budget, I strongly recommend utilising Istanbul’s elaborate ferry network. On my second day, I accidentally got on the wrong ferry and ended up on a four-hour return journey of the entire strait - I even saw the Black Sea from Rumeli Kavağı, the northernmost ferry terminal on the European side of Istanbul.
While I don’t recommend going all the way to the Black Sea, that trip only cost me ₺28. The orange juice you can purchase on board is actually more expensive than the trip itself. So for backpackers on a budget, there’s no need to fork hundreds of euros to see Istanbul’s infamous strait. Simply get on a ferry and see where it takes you.
Spiritual healing at a Hammam
The Turkish hammam, also known as a Turkish bath, dates back to the 14th century. Thought to be inspired by Roman baths, they were a place for both hygiene and community at a time before indoor plumbing became popular. Experiencing a hammam today is akin to stepping back in time to the Ottoman era when the fierce empire stretched from Europe to the Middle East.
There are hammams all over Istanbul. They range in price, from £12 for the most basic all the way up to a few hundred for the bougiest of travellers. Most of the baths separate men and women, although there are a few on the European side where couples can experience the baths together.
What to expect at a Turkish hammam
To be completely honest, I was terrified of going to a hammam. The idea of not only getting naked in front of a complete stranger but also being scrubbed down by them scared the shit out of me. In saying that, I’m not one to shy away from a challenge. So when my friend Laura mentioned she’d like to go, I suggested we go together.
Laura and I had only met a few days beforehand. She wasn’t staying at the same hostel as me. We actually met by chance when her brother, who was one of the guests at Second Home, invited her over for BBQ night. She bought me an orange juice and that was that. Best friends forever. Such is the nature of friendships you make travelling - from strangers to besties in less than 24 hours.
What I expected to be awkward and mortifying turned out to be a spiritual experience. In an era where many conversations, both online and in real life, are being had about healing your inner child, I honestly think a Turkish hammam may be the solution many are seeking. I felt like a little kid again, being led from room to room and scrubbed down by an older Turkish woman. Both Laura and I felt like we’d been born again by the time we left, not to mention incredibly relaxed.
My only other tip would be to watch out for the marble floors. Most baths are marble, from floor to ceiling, which can get incredibly slippery as I quickly learned. After quite literally going arse over tit, I would recommend treading carefully.
Advice for solo female travellers
I was warned repeatedly about the perils of travelling Turkey alone - and if I had a penny for every time someone told me “You left your husband?!” I would have many (many) pennies. Truth be told I had zero issues in Istanbul. The city is very hospitable, well-lit in the evenings and easy to get around. With the exception of one asshole at my local baklava shop towards the end of my trip, the locals are also very friendly. In saying that, I did meet a number of other women travelling solo who had experienced harassment from men on the street. So while I had a good experience, that’s not to say that travelling in Istanbul alone is entirely safe for women.
Overall, my advice would be to keep your wits about you as you would in any other city. My time spent in Istanbul was the first time I travelled alone with my wedding ring which may be the reason I was left alone (although I can’t confirm this). For peace of mind, you might like to try getting yourself a fake wedding ring. That way if you are approached on the street, it’s easy enough to point at your ring and say you’re on your way to meet your husband and you can’t chat. You might like to also consider dressing conservatively - think long flowing linen pants and skirts and long-sleeved shirts.
It breaks my heart to say this but I would also recommend not smiling at men on the street. I noticed when I did, my kindness was often interpreted as an invitation. That’s not to say Turkish men were not kind or hospitable. The vast majority of local people I met were lovely and very welcoming. What I am saying is don’t be afraid to be rude. If you don’t want to talk to someone, politely say no thank you and keep walking. Some hustlers will try and guilt you into eating at their restaurants or buying their wares - popular lines include “Don’t you want to drink tea with me?” or “I just want to say hello”. In this situation just say no and keep walking. They’ll get over it.
Lastly, I recommend staying in a hostel. Even if you book a private room, you’ll have more opportunities to make friends who you can explore the city with, which will lessen your chances of being harassed on the street.
Is Istanbul worth travelling to?
The ultimate question. Is Istanbul actually worth a visit?
With thousands of years of history, culture, local traditions and landmarks to be seen, Istanbul is easily one of the most fascinating cities in the world. It’s also one of the only cities in the world that straddles two continents, meaning you can have lunch in trendy Kadiköy on the Asian side of the city, cross the Bosphorus Strait and spend the afternoon shopping or exploring the city’s numerous landmarks on the European side.
From the tantalising cacophony of scents that permeate the city’s bazaars and the grand mosques, to the friendly local people and the winding cobblestone streets, it’s easy to see why travellers have been flocking to Istanbul for thousands of years. So if you’re wondering whether or not you should visit Istanbul, the answer is a resounding yes.
Getting around
The public transport in Istanbul is fantastic. It’s also a very walkable city, with most of the tourist hotspots all within a half hour’s walk from one another. If you would like to make use of the city’s excellent public transport links, make sure you pick up an Istanbulkart as soon as you can - this little red card will be your best friend when navigating Istanbul’s metro, bus and ferry links. It costs just ₺50 and can be purchased from the little black and yellow machines you’ll find all over the city. These same machines can be used to top your card up. The only annoying thing is Istanbulkart has a ₺700 limit, so if you’re planning on spending more than a few weeks in the city you may have to purchase another one.
Getting there
There are two international airports in Istanbul - Istanbul Atatürk Airport (IST), the larger of the two which you’ll find on the European side of the city, and Sabiha Gökçen International Airport (SAW), which is on the Asian side. IST has more international connections but most of the cheap domestic flights leave from SAW.
Istanbul can also be reached via overnight train from Sofia in Bulgaria (€46 one way). You can also enter Turkey from the Western side via a bus from Tbilisi in Georgia which runs to and from Kars. From there, you can take the famous Doğu Ekspresi, also known as the Eastern Express, to Ankara and then onto Istanbul. You won’t regret it.
FAQs
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Formerly known as Constantinople, Istanbul is the biggest city in Turkey. Located in the Northwest of Turkey at the foot of the Black Sea, it’s Europe’s most populous city with a population of about 15 to 20 million people.
Founded as Byzantium in 7 BCE, the city became Constantinople in 330 CE. The name was later changed a third time to Istanbul in 1930. In 2018, more than 13 million tourists visited the city, making it the eighth most visited city in the world.
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Contrary to popular belief, Istanbul is not the capital city of Turkey. Ankara became Turkey’s capital in 1923, following the Turkish War of Independence.
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This is probably the most commonly asked question I get from friends, family and other travellers. Like any other city, there are a few different scams you should look out for and you should absolutely keep your wits about you when exploring the city. However, in general, I found Istanbul to be very welcoming and hospitable. It’s sprawling and filthy and at times overwhelming, but in terms of safety, I had no issues.
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There are ATMs everywhere in Istanbul, with most charging a withdrawal fee of about 8 - 12% depending on the bank. ING doesn’t charge a fee for American cards but if you’re not from the United States, the best place to get Turkish Lira is the post office (yes, really). The ATMs don’t charge a withdrawal fee, meaning you can take out as much cash as you like without having to deal with exuberant fees.
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The best place to swim in Istanbul is undoubtedly the Princes’ Islands - nine islands just off the coast of the city. Büyükada is the biggest island and the best for swimming.
It takes just under two hours to get to Büyükada from Eminönü in central Istanbul, so it’s best to go early. You can also reach the islands from Kabataş. Entry to the beaches costs about ₺200 to ₺250 depending on which one you go to. This usually includes a sunlounger, access to the water and a ferry back to the Asian side of Istanbul.